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Plant Selection and Positioning

On this page I walk through the various requirements and planting zones that exist in the garden plan. By first defining the local environment, setting requirements on various plantings and then looking at individual species that may meet those requirements.

TODO: I now have a structure for this page, I need to fill out the details obtained from elsewhere

Contents

{:.no_toc}

  1. Will be replaced with the ToC, excluding the "Contents" header {:toc}

Requirements

  • No deciduous trees near southern neighboring property
  • No trees that are poisonous to fish within the proximity of the pond (prunus family, and others)
  • Max height of tree must not cause un-accounted for shading in the design (or tree should be feasible to prune and keep at the expected height)
  • Roots of trees near pool must not impact on its retaining wall and cause failure

Goals

  • Each plant added should serve more than one purpose, and one of those should always be something we typically eat
  • Preferably good for our hardiness zone
  • Avoid shading of neighboring southern property (some is ok, but not a lot)
  • Avoid deciduous near pond and pool (likely not going to be possible)
  • Design so color exists through most if not all the year (Ideally flowers or colorful leaves at different times of the year)
  • Avoid overhang of trees on any boundary fence
  • Roots of trees near highest point (south-eastern) of new small retaining wall should not impact it causing failure (not a requirement like the pool retaining wall as I can easily repair it myself)
  • Use tall trees like bananas to block view on eastern boundary fence into our backyard

Local environment

  • Frosts: Never observed (Nearby Albion park apparently 1.1 days mean a year, we maybe more protected)
  • Chill hours: 400-500 (Medium)
  • Soil pH: 5.1 : Acidic, need to improve using Calcitic lime (calcium carbonate), not dolomitic lime as high sodium content
  • Soil type: Clay, bad drainage (will attempt to improve using lime and adding organic matter)
  • Soil notes: Quite high salinity (Sodium, need to increase calcium)
  • Sun: 80-100% (Full)
  • Wind: Windy gusts a lot in August/September
  • Rainfall: 893mm per year, most in feb/mar fairly even through rest of year lowest month is sep
  • Slope aspect: Northerly
  • Hardiness Zone: 10b (1.7 - 4.4 degrees Celcius) (Or an aus specific zone 4 : https://www.anbg.gov.au/gardens/research/hort.research/zones.html )
  • Cold Zone: 10 (According to diggers club: https://www.diggers.com.au/shop/ordering-information/climate-maps/)
  • Heat Zone: 3 to 4 (21 days per year >= 30 degrees, According to diggers club: https://www.diggers.com.au/shop/ordering-information/climate-maps/)
  • Pests: Fruit fly, Cabbage moth, Aphids all the normal things

I am going to have to do some work on improving the soil. The report says there is a high sodium content, and I should increase the calcium content and raise the pH the solution is to treat with calcitic lime which I plan to do regularly and re-test. Additionally other normal processes like mulching, composting and generally trying to improve the soil structure as well.

One thing I have noticed with my currently small scale stuff is that there seem to be a lot more pests around Illawarra than I recall ever seeing up near Picton. Maybe it is the density of people, or thre warmer climate. Either way I have observed in everything we have planted to date significant pest issues. I am hopeful that the diverse ecosystem will help a little with this. I mention this here as plant selection can impact this a little too.

Some pests I have observed:

  • Fruit fly on almost all nectarines from my tree
  • Larvae in many larger tomatoes grown
  • Cabbage moth caterpillars on many leafy plants especially liked broccoli
  • Aphids (and ants) really liked the kale
  • Ants I think burrowed into new into new pruning's of young mango tree

Some things we may be able to do is use thicker-skinned varieties etc.

References:

Good references

Key locations with specific requirements

There are a few key locations that have specific requirements, these are mostly trees and is why I needed to wait until design before selection.

Large canopy evergreen tree : Mango R2E2

We have planned for a single larger canopy evergreen tree. This is still not a huge tree but can grow a bit larger as it is a reasonable distance from the south boundary fence and expected to provide shade in the south-western corner of our yard year-round creating a shady, cool micro-climate.

I have already chosen an R2E2 Mango tree for this location, it has been planted and is doing well. I saw multiple mango trees in the area thriving and producing fruit. Of all the other specifies we might have planted here, the mango is maybe less suited but more useful to our consumption.

Available space:

  • Ideally: 5m wide, 5m high
  • Maximum: 6m wide (prevent overhang of fence), 6m high as well, though height is less important here

Considered species:

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Shade and structure to garden creating a shaded micro-climate
  • Aesthetics : Also considered a macadamia tree here, but macadamia trees do not look as good IMO

Large canopy deciduous tree

We have planned for a single larger deciduous tree located near the pool (and the pond), which is undesirable for a deciduous tree, but unavoidable as I need something here on the northern side of the yard that permits light in during winter or the entire back yard is in shade.

Consider multiple species in a single planting hole or multiple species on single graft: https://www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/backyard-orchard-culture

If this tree doesn't work out it isn't super important to the design. It just adds balance and shading for a seating area.

Available space:

  • Ideally: 5m wide, 5m high
  • Maximum: 6m wide (prevent shading of pond plants), 6m high as well, though height is less important here

Considered species:

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Sunlight in winter, shade in summer
  • Aesthetics adding balance to the backyard design

Issues to consider:

  • Root system and pool retaining wall
  • Proximity to pond and toxicity for fish
  • Shape and proximity of branches to pool fence (for pool safety, there are regulations, but probably far enough away)
  • Size is important for impact on the sunlight to plants on south boundary fence

TODO Document fish toxicity either here or under pond section:

TODO: https://www.youtube.com/user/stephenlegaree14 This channel is amazing. He tests various garden hypothesis TODO: Look at https://puyallup.wsu.edu/lcs/ for gardening myths and very well researched information. References publications etc

Smaller evergreen trees

We have planned for multiple smaller evergreen trees along southern boundary fence. There is a bit more choice in this selection as it is not creating deliberate micro-climates or structure in the yard. As long as the trees meet the requirements outlined below it should be fine for many choices. They should get reasonable amount of sunlight and ok drainage.

Available space (for each plant):

  • Ideally: 2m wide, 3m high
  • Maximum: width variable depending on where located, 3.5m high

Considered species:

  • Lemon (Eureka)
  • Orange (Dwarf)

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Fewer other considerations here so we have more choice

Issues to consider:

  • Must not be too tall and overly shade southern neighboring property
  • Unless very small (under fence-line) should not be deciduous as neighboring property will not like extra leaves in his pool
  • Must not have branches overhanging neighboring property
  • Some of them are close to fish pond and cant be species that are toxic to fish

Dense evergreen bushes

The purpose of this is to hide the chicken run. It will be along the western boundary and we want to use it to make the chicken run and boundary fence hidden.

We have space for multiple different varieties here. Ideally evergreen but not a requirement. We can also choose to add a single deciduous smaller tree and a few shrubs, so long as the shrubs can grow under the tree.

Available space (for each plant):

  • Ideally: 2m wide, 3m high
  • Maximum: 3m wide, 3.5m high

Considered species:

  • Coffee (Not particulary dense but ok to mix with others)

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Density to hide chicken run

Issues to consider:

  • Not full sun, probably >50% summer but less in winter

Tall narrow trees for blocking eastern view into our back yard : Banana Cavendish

We need a row of trees planted in the chicken run that ideally have a narrow base, are tall and have leaves high up. Some examples are plams or bananas.

The neighboring property on the west have built a large deck that looks into our backyard. The goal of these is to provide some privacy. We shouldn't make trees too tall that will block their view, but ideally grow such that the leaves block to the top of our roof.

Available space (for each plant):

  • Ideally: ? wide, 5m high TODO need to model accuratly deck height and measure thi view.
  • Maximum: ?m wide, 6m high

Considered species:

  • Banana Cavendish
  • Palm trees
  • Date trees (wont work I dont think in out climate)
  • Bamboo

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Privacy screen

Issues to consider:

  • Narrow chicken run at base about 1.2m wide
  • length to cover is about 5m long

Smaller deciduous near glass house / pool fence

We have space in the corener and ideally to add balance to the yard for a single smaller deciduous tree/shrub like a fig. This is for aesthetics adding balance and also some shade in the summer. Must be deciduous to permit light through in the winter.

Available space (for each plant):

  • Ideally: 3m wide, 4m high
  • Maximum: 4m wide, 5m high

Considered species:

  • Fig
  • Almond
  • Peach etc

Purposes of tree at this location:

  • Food
  • Asthetic balance

Issues to consider:

  • Must be deciduous
  • Ideally mushroom shape, could be taller and overhang table.chairs area

Additionaly less specific planting zones

In addition to the above specific locations, I have a few zones in which I expect to be able to plant a variety of smaller shrubs/ground covers that are not as specific for purposes as the ones above. Instead these have the luxury of being "fillers" and so can serve purposes other than shade/structure, hiding things etc.

These can add color/aesthetics, and will likely include berries, herbs and other bushes and ground covers. I dont mind a few of these being exotic and occasional use as they dont take lots of space. Also, it is helpful to include flowers in these areas to attract bees and other insects.

The goal is to layer the planting so get the most out of the vertical space.

  • Aquaponic growbed (Annuals / Vegies)

    • The aquaponics system will largely be for leafy greens and other fast growing annuals that are good at taking nutrients from the pond
    • Planning to have in high sunlight, though one bed will probably have a bit more shade than the other

  • Raised garden bed (Annuals / Vegies)

    • We will not place annuals in the main garden, instead we plan to have 2x raised garden beds close to the kitchen window we can use to grow annuals

  • Garden bed near BBQ area mostly shaded in winter

    • Near the BBQ area, this is temporary and may be replaced one day with a decking area.
    • Been successful growing sweet potatoes and pumpkin in here, but in winter not much sun at all.

  • Full shade

    • There is a little space near the chicken coop for any plants that can grow ok in full shade. Not a lot of these, we are looking for shrubs, vines, and ground covers

  • Southern fence 50-80% sun probably

    • Especially on the southern fence, there is space for numerous shrubs, vines and ground covers that will have partial shade. More shade in summer and less in winter.
    • These will want to be layered to get the most fro mthe light with shrubs at the south side. The pka with the small trees is at the back, shrubs next and ground cover after that. This is probably the prime space for shrubs/ground covers in the design as it has decent sunlight access

  • Full sun climber

    • Over the arbor / trellis at the entrance to the walkway, we have space for one climber (maybe two one on each side). I am considering grapes here.
    • They will have access to nearly full sun climbing up the arbor.

  • Pool fence climber

    • Already planted passionfruit along here but is a good location for full sun climber on the fence.

  • Aquatic plants

    • Some specific ones needed for providing shade to fish (Lillies for example)
    • Maybe some are edible? What can we do here with edible planting?
    • Some specifically for the frog area (need research on plants for frog ponds in our area)
    • Take into account height, aesthetics etc

Considered Species List

Here I plan to document the species I have considered and the research I have done on them ordered in a way that helps me to make simpler decisions.

Mango R2E2

Photo of a local mango tree

Banana Cavendish

Photo of a Banana tree I grew at our last property

TODO Not done anything below here needs to update and format like above

Each item can have sub-points that identify varying values from different references in case there seems to be inconsistency. The main one will be what we use though

Template for each species:

@TODO What is most important for selection?

Shade tolerant plants:

DONE : Banana: (Using banana 2D 2.3mW,3mH) Dwarf Cavendish: Width To 2m, Height To 3m Try get in following order: Dwarf Cavendish(perfect), Cavendish(too big), (Either Ducasse good cold or PISANG CEYLON) Dwarf Cavendish Banana : Musa acuminata https://www.diggers.com.au/shop/edibles/banana-dwarf-cavendish/wbac/ https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/taree/plants/banana-trees-for-sale-1-dwarf-banana-plant-1-available/1140246061 can grow to 2m still May not be able to buy in NSW NOT: M. basjoo inedible fruit Cavendish Banana (Also called WIlliams) : Musa acuminata * https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/Banana-Williams-Musa-acuminata.htm 2-5m high https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/Banana-Pisang-Ceylan-Musa-acuminata.htm

DONE : Lemon: * Full sized lemon Eureka : https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/lemon-eureka-tree.htm 2-5m heigh * Dwarf Lemon Eureka (typically 2.5m high and 2m wide) Sparse foliage http://www.grevilleanursery.com.au/kbm/products.php?product=Lemon-Eureka-Dwarf-200mm Eureka better no thorns, fruits all year (not as hardy) Can buy from rngalls nursery? Dwarf can still grow upto 3m : http://www.engalls.com.au/citrus/dwarfcitrus/tabid/63/default.aspx https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0003/137712/4-lemon-varieties.pdf

Passion fruit (pool fence) * Nellie Kelly Grafted Black (6-8 m^2 area : say 2m either side of the roots according to daileys) : Passiflora edulis https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/Passionfruit-Nellie-Kelly.htm http://www.nelliekelly.com.au/grafted-black-passionfruit.html

DONE : Maybe try a davidsons plum behind the mango in shade: 2-5m high https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/smooth-davidsons-plum-tree.htm Upto 10m high like a fern/palm a bit with leaves at topwhen small more like a bush wants shade + moisture in rainforrest no frost http://plantnet.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/cgi-bin/NSWfl.pl?page=nswfl&lvl=sp&name=Davidsonia~johnsonii https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/threatenedspeciesapp/profile.aspx?id=10209 https://www.sgaonline.org.au/davidsons-plum/

Juneberry/Saskatoon Berry : Amalanchier Alnifolia 2 - 5m shrub prolific fruit easy to grow like blueberries https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/Saskatoon-Berry-Plant-Tree.htm https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/trees/handbook/th-3-33.pdf If can find specifically : Pembina Saskatoon (is best eating variety)

Grapes: (where?)

Coffee Bushes: Seven Son Flower similar (but decid) Japansese Cleyera Inkberry Coffee Arabica : Coffea arabica (2-5m high can be pruned to 2m) https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/coffee-arabica-tree.htm http://www.bambooland.com.au/coffea-arabica-coffee-tree Doesn't like cold < 5 deg

DONE : Citrus: (Maybe in middle of coffee?) Dwarf Orange Navelina : Citrus sinensis (1 - 2 m high, wide spreading) Smaller than most varieties https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/dwarf-orange-navelina-tree.htm or maybe bigger tree Valencia (2 - 5m) https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/orange-valencia-tree.htm

DONE : Stone Fruit or Avacado or Lychee: Nectarine Fantasia : Prunus persica (2-5m high, can be pruned to 2m, ) 400-600 chill hours required for this variety according to: https://www.grandpasorchard.com/_ccLib/attachments/pages/GO-Web-Chill+Hours+Chart-PEACH+(2013).pdf Soft when ripe Easy remove seed https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/nectarine-fantasia-tree.htm https://summerfruit.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Nectarines-Variety-Chart-Summerfruit-Australia.pdf Cherry too difficult where we are, Peach not as nice to eat, plum needs multiple Nectarine, Peach, Plum, Cherry I like cherries the most... But too difficult to grow Plums not great need cross pollinator Peaches other option but furry

DONE Fig: Their fig looks nothing like a real one Picone Black : Ficus carica (2-5m can be pruned to 2m) Either Picone Black or Black Genoa, I think I prefer the Picone more similar to my parents one https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/fig-catalogna-tree.htm https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/fig-black-genoa-tree.htm

  • Macadamia (A16, A38, 814) Can grow to 20m high, but can be pruned Daleys: 5-10m high ?? How wide ?? Rich well drained soil Good supply of Nitrogen + Potassium Addition of Foul manure and compost before planting Dont use high phosphorous fertalizers Needs constant moisture while growing (mulch) 4m between trees so probably a bit less than 2m spread Dwarf macca, 2-4 m high when established ?? Temperature?? I think will be fine is good at parents, and good in QLD

  • Avacado (Pinkerton, Wurtz)

  • Mango (Valencia, Glenn) 4-8m dont like temperature <4degrees C plant late winter early spring dig hole 2x wide and 2x deep as root ball best slightly acidic sandy loam wet summers, dry winters and springs established can tolerate occasional hard frost down to -5deg full of organic matter use shade cloth to protect against frost for saplings annual pruning + dwarf variety can be limited to 2-3m tall + wide Pruning and training should start early. In spring or summer, cut the top off young trees, 1m above the ground to stimulate multiple branching. Retain four to five main limbs and encourage them to form a low spreading vase-shaped framework. For the following three years, continue to prune the tips of the main branches each summer to promote multiple shoots. Remove any vigorous upward growth to keep the canopy low and compact. Good info pruning: https://www.organicgardener.com.au/articles/make-mine-mango both deep tap and shallow feeder roots

  • Cherry Susceptible to root rot Needs great drainage Never permitted to be shaded by other trees Sweet variety needs a few trees to cross polinate Sour variety is fine to self polinate

  • Nectarine (Dwarf varieties?) Will be fine except for fruit fly Daleys: 2-4m High Well drained

  • Lychee (Bosworth 3, Wai Chee) Is it too cold? It seems like it might be ok, but some chance of frost Daleys: 3-6,4-8m (Ideal apparently 3 - 5 metres)

    • Fruit only on sun exposed
    • Organic mulch
    • Do NOT mound
    • Needs windbreak (suggest banana)
    • Plant late spring, need lots of water at start never dry out
    • Moist well drained soil
    • Preferrable ph 5.0 - 7.5 (alkalinity may result in iron deficiency)
    • Shallow root
    • Lots of water but never water logged
    • Do not bury root crown (between roots and trunk) must be exposed
    • 100-200 hours < 20 degrees
    • No temperature <0 degrees for more than 8 hours
    • Buy air layers NOT grafted
    • Dont need two trees to fruit one is fine
    • Apparently air layerd dont have tap roots

  • Custard Apple (African Pride) Daleys: 3-5m (one), most 5-8m 1m deep well drained sandy loam bad bacterial wilt disease from tomatos, potatos, eggplant, capsicums, ginger very brittle wood needs protection 25-28 degrees Oct to Feb best, above 28 just more growthi instead of fruit <13degree early winter damage fruit want relative humidity of 70% for fruit set Custard Apples need high temperatures and high humidity. They are very wind sensitive and will not tolerate any frost when young and only light frosts when mature.

  • Persimmon (Fuyu, Flat Seedless, Hachiya) 4-7m,3-5m Dwarf: 2-4 Very rounded shape tree Plant in winter PH 6.5 - 7.5 (but not finiky) Say not so good with wet feet, but was not such trustworthy site 15-20ft tall

  • Fig (Black Genoa, Excel) 2-5m Love lots of water in winter and dry summer () Ficus ‘Black Ischia’ good for backyard plant in late winter give shallow soil (concrete slab underneath) and will force to spread + have lots of fruit, if deep roots set then pruduce big canopy of leaves full sun, well drained soil ph 6.0-6.5, will tolerate 5.5 - 8.0 want heat in summer lots of organic matter in soil Figs don’t like wet feet and are often are planted in raised beds or mounds to ensure good drainage. plant 15 to 20 feet apart deep rooted well draining soil with cold protection

  • Paw Paw (Southern Red, RB3) 2-4m high try different varieties first, some smell/taste awful either love or hate. bisexual red variety apparently good (not in cooler climates, will revert to males) need variety that is bisexual or both male/female trees

    deep, rich, humusy loam with good drainage and a steady moisture supply will tolerate many different soils including heavy clay or sand do not tolerate water logged soils pH 5.5 to 7.0. 15-20 feet tall. 3-5m in height. They are relatively short lived trees, averaging 5-10 years in life expectancy It’s a good idea to create a shallow mound of soil rich in compost and plant the paw paw no earlier than late spring

  • Dwarf orange (Valencia, Washington navel) 1-2m Valencia best for many parts of australia apparently 4m tall non-dwarf

  • Dwarf Lemon Eureka 1-2m Actuall Eureka better than lisbon Not thorny Fewer seeds Lisbon better in Melbourne and cold areas Fruit all year not in blocks about 4m tall non-dwarf Citrus in general: Dont love frost but work fine Like sunny days Need lots of nutrients Washington Navel best eating but hard to grow (gets lots of diseases, detoriates fast, less fruit than valencia) Dwarf: These are exactly the same as the big ones, only they grow to about half the size pH of 6.0–7.0.* An ideal citrus soil is well-structured, with good drainage and a minimum 60 cm of topsoil. Citrus does not like very acid soils (pH below 5.0) Citrus does not like very alkaline soils (pH above 8.0).

  • Banana ()Cavendish (Williams), Lady Finger)

  • Coffee Maybe too cold? Probably ok after canopy above it 2-4m Coffea Arabica? 2m high Can grow high, but usually pruned to 2m high shrub 15-24 degrees preference, fine 7-30 degrees shady spot sheltered from cold/hot winds very frost sensitive any soil slightly acid (pH6), doesnt get waterlogged and isn't dry and sandy plant late spring 30 plants for a cup per day http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/buy/coffee-arabica-tree.htm

  • Kiwi fruit might work too (Sweetie, H4,(need male pollinator)) Is it cold enough for this? Need male + female ph between 5.0 and 6.5 Develop crown rot when water sits on surface soil after rain north facing slopes, shielded from low winter and early spring sun best raised mounds, very touchy about sitting water in early years Can be coaxed up gazebos, pergolas or split rail fences 700 hours <7 degrees WELL DRAINED SOIL requires lots of pruning VERY prolific plant at least 3m apart can grow 3 m wide dont get dual male/female grafted ones The ideal soil is a slightly acid, sandy loam Maybe behind vege patch on fence?

  • Grapes (Golden muscat, Isabella black) http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Grape-Vines Full sun Any soil type, slightly acidic to neutral Make sure at least gets morning sun, a little bit of afternoon shade apparently ok Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines) Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation. In order to start flowering, grapes require temperatures below 5ºC for a period of 4-6 weeks they require a cool winter, wet-ish spring and a long, dry summer When possible, get them certified virus-free Use soil that slightly rocky or sandy with a pH just above 7

  • Passion Fruit (Purple, Panama Gold(not grafted))

  • Miracle fruit in a pot http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/fruit%20pages/miracle.htm Likes warm/light maybe ok on verandah be a very interesting plant to have

  • Carnivorous plants (in a small bowl)

Shrubs:

  • Atherton Raspberry (Better than normal as not cold enough for normal here)
  • Blueberry (Low chill varieties)
  • Coffee ()

Climbers:

  • Logan berry
  • Passion fruit
  • Kiwi fruit (Large climber)
  • Dragon fruit (Large climber)
  • Grape (Large climber)

Ground cover:

  • Strawberries

Juneberry? Many small farm operators and fruit enthusiasts see blueberries as Plan A. We all know that blueberries are popular, tasty, and they practically market themselves. But if you do not have very well-drained, acidic soils, you have to go with Plan B. It would be great if there was a productive berry that very much looked and tasted like a blueberry, but was not so fickle about soils. That’s where juneberries come in. And it turns out, juneberries have several advantages over blueberries.

List of herbs for dame, wet and in water: https://www.richters.com/show.cgi?page=InfoSheets/d9005.html

Things in design:

  • Where to put things like corn, pumpkin, zuccini and other larger vegetables? Probably not in garden bed. Use that for leafy greens and smaller things. So want a spot that is easy to dig up occasionally without disturbing the trees too much

Companion plants: https://permaculturenews.org/resources_files/Poster_GDN_Com_Plant.pdf

Things in design:

  • Where to put things like corn, pumpkin, zuccini and other larger vegetables? Probably not in garden bed. Use that for leafy greens and smaller things. So want a spot that is easy to dig up occasionally without disturbing the trees too much

Flowers:

Maybe:

  • Orange (dwarf)

Support trees (remove later):

  • Bleeding Heart
  • sickle wattle

Trees:

  • Mango
  • Lemon (dwarf?)
  • Bananas
  • Fig
  • Nectarine? or Peach? or Apricot?

Bushes:

  • Coffee ? Blueberry
  • Guava?
  • Finger lime
  • Sage
  • Rosemary
  • Lavender
  • Wormwood

Vines:

  • Passionfruit
  • Grapes??

Medium Sized Perennials:

  • Asparagus?
  • Raspberries? (Spread a lot)

Small Perennials:

  • Comfrey
  • Parsely
  • Chamomile
  • Strawberries
  • Oregano
  • Chives

Ground cover:

  • Pennyroyal
  • Lawn Chamomile
  • Sweet Potato
  • Mint

Water:

Veggies + Herbs:

  • Annuals all in raised bed

For the layerd approach:

  • Figured out trees and large shrubs
  • Small shrubs to plant:
    • Blueberry
    • galangal (Ginger like plant)
  • Herbs:
    • Comefry
    • Paresly
    • Tumeric
  • Ground covers Sweet potato? Apparently improves soil, is edible and helps in a number of ways Clover? Strawberries Pinto peanut looks good

After trees are up, then things change a little

  • Shrubs and herbs only on edges no longer scattered
  • Ground covers use shade tolerant like pinto peanut

Fruit trees available in RTLP Trees available in application: Lemon 6.1m Loquot 9.14 Little Walnut 9.14m decid Carob Tree 9.14m good shape Cashew Tree 9.14m good shape Guava 7.6m Kumquat : 4.57m Mandarin Orange 7.62 Meyer Lemon 3.66 Olive 7.62 Orange 6.1 Red Mulberry 12.19m decid Hortulan Plum Rio Red Grapefruit 6.1 Sweet Cherry 18.29m decid Red Mulberry 12.19m decid Hortulan Plum

Tamarind 15,24 decid

Consider Jujube (Chinese date palm, tastes like apple or when dried like dates apparently: http://www.eatingwell.com/article/2052310/heres-everything-you-need-to-know-about-jujube-fruit/)

TODO: Consider Gunnera plant it looks like will provide good shade for the pond : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2Wgaimzs40 TODO: https://youtu.be/9jXj4NEFaiU referenced global inventory of perenial vegetables https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9ew4_svq9K3N3puYWNuSF9MdlE/edit

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